Why I won’t be buying sea-farmed salmon ever again

WE PICKED the wrong day to take a small boat across a fjord in wild western Iceland. The weather was challenging, to say the least, with a heavy swell and lashing rain. We were trying to get out to a salmon farm to see it for ourselves, but were beaten back.

I was in the country on a press trip organised and funded by the outdoor clothing company Patagonia, which …