The science behind fluffy pancakes and using the right raising agent

OVER the holidays, I went to visit my brother-in-law, who wowed us with some exceptional American-style pancakes. Thick and fluffy, airy and nicely browned, they were a triumph, after which my children have never looked at my own pancakes the same way.

Usually, I mix up a batch of dry ingredients – flour, sugar, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda – and store until a pancake emergency arises. I then whisk in the wet ingredients: an egg, milk and some melted butter, and off to the pan we go. They taste good enough, but are flat compared with my brother-in-law’s…